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Mycelium-based biotextile: a Muush's creation
TEXTILE

Mycelium-based biotextile: a Muush's creation

Explore mycelium-based biotextile from agricultural wastes with Muush, a biotech company in Brazil.

VKVictória Kopp
Oct 25, 2024
9 mins read
6.3K views

Key Points

  1. Muush grows mycelium on Brazil’s abundant agricultural waste, then treats it with low-water, non-hazardous chemistry to create a flexible, leather-like biotextile.
  2. Core advantages: isotropic fibre network for strength, rapid growth cycles, and renewable feedstocks that lower environmental impact versus conventional textiles.
  3. Target applications span fashion, interiors, and automotive; early focus is on aesthetic parity with leather plus baseline mechanical performance.
  4. Scaling plan: optimise substrates and growth parameters, introduce automation for consistency, and pursue standards/certifications to meet industrial specs and cut costs.
  5. Progress depends on cross-disciplinary work (biology + materials engineering) and circular design, hybridising with other natural fibres and planning end-of-life beyond landfill.

Full interview with Muush

Can you share insights into the process of developing biotextiles from mycelium?

The development of biotextiles from mycelium began in 2022, driven by the quest for economically viable solutions with reduced environmental impact. Muush was created to revolutionize the fashion industry. Mycelium, the root-like structure of fungi, can be cultivated and processed to produce a sustainable and versatile alternative to traditional textiles. Muush's process for obtaining biotextiles from mycelium starts with agricultural waste, which serves as the fungus's nutrient source.

Being in an ideal location, Brazil, which generated over 758 million tons of agricultural waste in 2021, provides ample raw materials. The fungus consumes this waste, growing to a specific size before extraction. The extracted mycelium undergoes treatment using environmentally friendly chemicals to produce a strong and flexible material. This treatment method minimizes water usage and eliminates the need for hazardous chemicals.

A key characteristic of Muush's mycelium-based biotextile is its flexibility and strength, which are attributed to the inherent structure of mycelium. This material is sustainable, utilizing renewable resources as feedstock and exhibiting a lower environmental impact compared to traditional textile manufacturing methods. Moreover, mycelium grows rapidly under controlled conditions, offering an alternative to synthetic fabrics that imitate leather.

The applications of this innovative material are vast, with major uses in the fashion and apparel industry (clothing, shoes, accessories), interior design (furnishings, wall coverings, decorative elements), and automotive interiors (seat covers, upholstery, interior components).

As research and development in mycelium-based materials progresses, the range of applications is expected to expand further. The adaptability and sustainability of mycelium make it an exciting and promising material for the future of textiles and other industries. As research and development in mycelium-based materials progress, the range of applications is likely to expand further. The adaptability and sustainability of mycelium make it an exciting and promising material for the future of textiles and other industries.

 Muush's process for obtaining biotextiles from mycelium starts with agricultural waste, which serves as the fungus's nutrient source.
Muush's process for obtaining biotextiles from mycelium starts with agricultural waste, which serves as the fungus's nutrient source.

Your background includes working on bioactive glass scaffolds. How has this experience influenced or contributed to your work with mycelium-based materials?

Working with bioactive glass scaffolds likely involves a strong foundation in materials science. This background contributed to understanding the structural and material properties of various materials, which is beneficial now when working with mycelium-based materials. Also, it requires collaboration across disciplines such as materials science, biology, and medicine. This experience was beneficial because, for mycelium-based materials, I needed a cross-disciplinary approach.

The passion for sustainable materials began with these scaffolds, since I used rice husk ash as the source of silica. This perspective contributes to a broader awareness of eco-friendly materials.

Which specific properties or characteristics of mycelium-based materials do you find most intriguing for their success in sustainable applications?

Their physical characteristics are the most critical. First, the appearance should look like leather, and then the mechanical characteristics need to achieve the minimum requirements to apply in different areas. It is a versatile material, as mycelium can be molded into various shapes and sizes. This adaptability allows for the creation of a wide range of products. Perhaps the most significant advantage is the sustainability of mycelium-based materials. Mycelium grows on agricultural by-products, converting them into a usable material. This process is resource-efficient and contributes to the circular economy.

How do you anticipate addressing challenges for the widespread adoption of mycelium-based materials on an industrial scale?

To achieve widespread adoption of mycelium-based materials on an industrial scale requires a strategic and multifaceted approach. The strategies to overcome these challenges are to invest in research to enhance the properties of mycelium-based materials, making them competitive with traditional materials in terms of strength, durability, and versatility. Scalability is very important, and we need to optimize cultivation parameters, substrate formulations, and growth conditions to increase yield and reduce production costs.

Using automation and technology to streamline production processes ensures consistency and reliability in material properties. We need to establish industry standards and certifications for mycelium-based materials to ensure quality, safety, and compliance with regulations. I aim for breakthroughs in developing highly scalable and cost-effective methods for mycelium cultivation and material production. Achieving economies of scale will be crucial for making mycelium-based materials competitive with traditional materials in terms of cost. Also perform novel aesthetics, textures, and functionalities with customization of material properties to meet specific requirements for diverse applications. Achieving these milestones would contribute to a more sustainable and environmentally friendly future.

Considering the diverse applications of mycelium, do you believe a cross-disciplinary approach is essential to unlocking its full potential?

Yes, a cross-disciplinary approach is indeed essential! Mycelium has gained attention for its versatile applications. To harness these properties effectively and explore their various applications, collaboration across different disciplines is crucial. First, the cultivation of mycelium involves biological processes, and experts in biology and biotechnology can contribute to optimizing the growth conditions, genetic modification for desired properties, and scale-up of mycelium production. To transform this mycelium into a material, it is crucial to understand its structural and material properties, which require expertise in materials science and engineering. This knowledge is essential for optimizing the mechanical strength, durability, and other material characteristics for specific applications.

This collaborative approach allows for creative problem-solving, innovative applications, and the development of sustainable solutions that address the complex challenges faced by various industries.

What advice would you give to young professionals entering the field of sustainable materials?

My advice for entering this field is to integrate knowledge from different disciplines that can lead to sustainable and innovative solutions that consider the entire life cycle of materials. Focus on the circular economy, thinking that products and processes need to contribute to a closed-loop system, minimizing waste and environmental impact. In addition, be inspired by nature. Nature has evolved efficient and sustainable solutions over millions of years, offering valuable insights for creating environmentally friendly materials.

The field of sustainable materials is dynamic and continually evolving. By staying curious, open to collaboration, and proactive in addressing sustainability challenges, young professionals and researchers can make meaningful contributions to a more sustainable future.

I believe that materials have the most impactful contribution, especially in fashion, due to the huge problem of disposal. These new materials need a life cycle so that their disposal doesn't end in a landfill.

 Focus on the circular economy, thinking that products and processes need to contribute to a closed-loop system, minimizing waste and environmental impact.
Focus on the circular economy, thinking that products and processes need to contribute to a closed-loop system, minimizing waste and environmental impact.

Do you see opportunities for collaboration or integration between traditional materials and newer, more sustainable alternatives?

Yes, there are numerous opportunities for collaboration and integration of these different materials. Achieving a balance between these materials involves considering various factors such as environmental impact, performance, cost, and consumer preferences. It is possible to create hybrid materials with enhanced properties. This could involve integrating mycelium with natural fibers, polymers, or other sustainable materials to retain desirable properties while reducing environmental impact.

This can lead to more environmentally friendly and economically viable solutions. Stakeholders across industries need to work together to drive positive change and transition toward a more sustainable future.

TextileMycelium
VK

Victória Kopp

Victória Kopp is a Chemical Engineer, with a master's about leather and a PhD in progress on biomaterials and sustainability. She is the CTO of Muush. Muush is a biotech from Brazil and produces mycelium textiles from agricultural wastes.

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