Key Points
- Alternative fibres and bacterial cellulose move from pilots to early adoption, aiming to cut waste and decouple from petro-inputs.
- Decarbonisation lens: materials must lower lifecycle emissions while fitting circular business models.
- Biggest hurdles: scale-up time, CAPEX, and supply-chain buy-in; collaborations are the unlock.
- Tangible progress from startups (e.g., bacterial-cellulose ventures) and brands testing waste-to-value routes.
- SynBio Hubs framework explores local by-product streams (e.g., sea-urchin waste) into new fibres and products.
Full interview with Luis Quijano
Can you share insights on the prevailing practices in textile production today?
Drawing from my expertise in alternative and emerging fibers, I'd say the traditional ways of making clothes are quite demanding on resources and harmful to the environment. The clothing industry continues to churn out an increasing volume of garments each year. Yet, an alarming rate of this clothing will end up in landfills. This paints a worrisome picture.
To tackle this issue, the fashion industry is actively moving towards more sustainable and circular practices. Alternative fibers play a pivotal role in this shift, offering a promising avenue to diminish environmental impact and cultivate a more responsible and eco-friendly supply chain.
In fact, we are starting to see a lot of emerging biomaterials being developed made from by-products such as food waste or by using organisms such as bacteria and yeast. The innovation in the fashion biotechnology space right now is very fascinating! I recently wrote this paper on how the future of fashion and biotechnology is becoming more interconnected and give more examples in case you are interested in reading about it.
What role do alternative fibers play in achieving net-zero and deep decarbonisation targets within the fashion industry?
A lot of us may have heard the following: “To keep global warming to no more than 1.5°C – as called for in the Paris Agreement – emissions need to be reduced by 45% by 2030 and reach net zero by 2050.” Thus, our future fashion materials should not only be sustainable, but also focus on reducing the carbon emission impacts by adopting eco-friendly practices, implementing innovative technologies, and fostering a circular economy. As such, the role these emerging fibers play in the next few years is crucial for the future of our society.
Could you give an example of a project that has successfully implemented regenerative practices or utilised alternative fibers?
In addressing this question, I'd like to shed light on the rapid advancements in biotechnology and synthetic biology, both of which are playing a pivotal role in crafting sustainable fibers and technologies for the fashion industry.
Notably, there is a surge in startups actively addressing the complex challenges within the fashion landscape by prioritising cleaner production methods. Companies like Cellugy and SMOBYA, specialising in bacterial cellulose, exemplify this trend.
Additionally, online stores like Aiya Ayia and Ikon Sweden offer sustainable products. I have had personal conversations with these companies and am well-acquainted with their commitment to either developing or utilising these novel materials. Their initiatives mark significant strides towards achieving net-zero and decarbonisation goals in the ever-evolving fashion industry.
Comparing conventional materials in the fashion industry, what are the tangible benefits and possible downsides you have experienced or anticipate with alternative fibers?
When comparing conventional materials in the fashion industry with alternative fibers, the tangible benefits are evident, including sustainable alternatives and initiatives focused on reducing waste and promoting waste-to-value. These alternatives are inherently designed for the greater good.
However, it's crucial to acknowledge the challenges. As these materials and technologies are still in the developmental stage, they require a considerable investment of time and effort. Moreover, successful implementation necessitates robust support from various stakeholders to ensure that these initiatives can indeed shape the reality of the future.
What are some of the primary challenges or obstacles that fashion brands face in implementing regenerative practices and alternative fibers?
It's vital to highlight the instrumental role of collaborations for startups and emerging companies in developing these materials. Collaborations offer crucial support throughout the intricate development process. Recognising that these innovative materials require time to mature is key.
There's no quick fix to address fashion's sustainability crisis. Therefore, the right collaborations become not just beneficial but integral to successfully integrating regenerative practices and alternative fibers into the industry.
Of the achievements in promoting a regenerative economy and sustainability through regenerative fibers in the fashion industry, which one do you consider to be the most impactful so far and why?
It's challenging to pinpoint a single achievement as the most impactful in promoting a regenerative economy and sustainability through regenerative and alternative fibers in the fashion industry.
Instead, I would like to draw attention to the remarkable rise of proactive businesses, artisans, scientists, designers, and collaborators with whom I work closely or whom I have read about. Their collective eagerness to bring sustainable changes to this industry is noteworthy, and I take pride in witnessing these efforts in action. I believe that this collective approach has the potential for significant impact, and I'm hopeful that we'll see even more transformative changes in the future.
How do brands integrate regenerative fibers into their operations or projects, ensuring scalability and feasibility in the long term?
Brands infuse regenerative fibers into their operations with a distinctive vision that goes beyond meeting the status quo or appearing eco-friendly. Rather, they aim to embed sustainability into their core design principles. While scalability is generally viewed as advantageous, not every aspect needs to be scaled, as it depends on the purpose and scope of the initiative.
Regarding frameworks, I am focused this year on developing a synthetic biology framework (SynBio Hubs) with the potential to transform any waste by-product into new bioresources and bioproducts. It is a collaborative research grant funded by the ARC Centre of Excellence in Synthetic Biology which partners with local Mallacoota artists and the Victorian Sea Urchin Divers’ Association.
Our research team is exploring how elements of sea urchin waste might be enhanced to create innovative materials and products. Through this initiative, we aim to develop a SynBio Hubs Framework – a set of processes and principles that towns anywhere can adopt to find place-based solutions to their own problems for waste streams to make their own sustainable materials and products.
I anticipate that this project will contribute valuable insights to the growing field of emerging fashion materials and inspire further exploration of the business and marketing dimensions within this domain.
Moving forward, what are some emerging trends or innovations in the use of regenerative that you find promising within the fashion industry?
We are going to see a lot more diversity in this field. The evolution of this emerging space demands not only scientists and engineers for material development but also individuals in business and marketing to craft effective strategies, designers capable of bringing visions to life with these materials, and the support of legal and government stakeholders for sustainable futures. Looking into some of these elements, I recently wrote a paper discussing how sustainable companies communicate their ‘sustainable’ material innovations on company websites.
In summary, the realisation of these promising trends hinges on the collaboration and inclusion of diverse perspectives and stakeholders. As such, I am encouraged to observe this inclusivity taking shape and believe it is pivotal for transforming these trends into a tangible reality within the fashion industry!
