Key Points
- Bio-based stretch rises: Castor-oil–derived elastane from suppliers like Fulgar is emerging as a credible alternative to fossil-based stretch for swim and active categories.
- Mono-material first: Fabrics designed for fibre-to-fibre recycling, or with proven chemical-recycling pathways: beat mixed constructions that trap value at end-of-life.
- Regulation is the lever: EU rules are pushing higher standards across supplier countries; the U.S. UFLPA is reshaping sourcing due-diligence; the UK is drafting its own post-Brexit approach.
- Traceability is the bottleneck: End-to-end data (waste, water, microfibres, biodiversity) needs dedicated SaaS/AI; Reverse Resources is cited as a strong model for manufacturing-stage traceability.
- Category complexity matters: Lingerie can have 60–80 components per bra; circularity requires fewer materials, repairability, and clearer end-of-life routes.
- Future signals: Return of upgraded natural fibres, clearer circular design for complex garments, and brand differentiation via authenticity and education in DTC.
Full interview with Aude Penouty
What are the most innovative fabrics you've encountered when designing lingerie, swimwear, activewear, and surfwear?
Circular fabrics, particularly those that include stretch properties, represent a significant advancement in sustainable textiles. A noteworthy development in this area is the use of biobased stretch yarns. For example, Fulgar is a supplier that stands out for its innovative yarns. Materials derived from castor oil, including renewable bio-based threads, are especially promising. These materials are not only fascinating but also represent a sustainable choice for swimwear. Exploring biobased solutions like these is a promising direction for the future of sustainable textiles.
The most remarkable fabrics I've encountered are either made from single materials (mono-materials) with a fiber-to-fiber approach or possess significant capabilities for chemical recycling. These fabrics can vary in appearance and texture; some may be shinier or less flexible than others. Their unique characteristics necessitate a shift in how we perceive and value materials in the textile industry.
How do you perceive the impact of fast fashion on the sustainability efforts within the lingerie and swimwear industry?
My approach emphasizes going from a volume strategy to a value strategy. Simply maintaining current levels of production, waste, and consumer engagement is not sustainable, even if we switch to recycled or more sustainable materials. The initial hurdle is always adapting to a new way of thinking, including reduction of overconsumption.
Another significant challenge is scaling up these innovative solutions. Companies like Infinite Fiber and Spinnova exemplify successful scaling up, demonstrating how it's possible to expand innovative, sustainable technologies effectively.
With your experience in different regions, including Asia, how do you adapt sustainable fashion practices to fit various cultural contexts and market demands?
I developed the Cultural Broker - Cultural Linker Skills method after years of hands-on experience. The foundation of this approach lies in the importance of listening and maintaining a robust research and development process. These elements are crucial for its success.
Given your expertise in women’s wear and swimwear, what differences do you see in the approach to sustainability in these markets compared to menswear and in different regions like Europe, the US, and Australia?
Cultural differences impact business and communication. When it comes to sourcing ethical practices, and waste management in the garment industry, there is variation by regulation, financial resources, or training. A shared challenge for Western countries is their reliance on external sourcing. Europe leads with sustainable regulations that promote improved practices and behaviors, including those of supplier countries. The U.S. is contributing through the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, aiming to combat forced labor.
Meanwhile, the UK is developing its own regulations following its departure from the Schengen Area agreement. By the way, the Global Fashion Agenda, in collaboration with UNEP, is now conducting a serious study about gender equity and ethics in our industry.
What are the main challenges you face in sustainable sourcing, especially in specialised areas like lingerie and swimwear, and how do you overcome them?
Traceability and overconsumption remain the foremost challenges in sustainability, followed by cost considerations. Addressing these issues necessitates specialized software-as-a-service (SAAS) and artificial intelligence (AI) tools for both predicting and generating data.
Reverse Ressource™ stands out as a prime example of excellence in traceability and waste management within the garment manufacturing sector. Furthermore, a systemic and global perspective on the entire value chain is essential. This approach encompasses water management, microplastic control, and biodiversity preservation, among other concerns.
What do you foresee as the future trends in lingerie and swimwear globally?
Sourcing in this industry is complex due to the numerous elements and components involved. For example, a sophisticated bra may comprise 60 to 80 components, including accessories, yarn, and dyes. On my part, when it's appropriate, I recommend circularity emphasizing efficient, closed-loop management.
There's also a resurgence of natural yarns with enhanced properties and applications. Moreover, authenticity and educational efforts can set a brand apart in a direct-to-consumer (D to C) relationship. Also Fashion is an industry linked to political decisions, so I believe in a geopolitical challenge, with countries like China or USA, to overcome in order to lead a more sustainable industry.
