What inspired you to develop alpine gear that leverages the survival abilities of alpine plants for filmmakers?
Alpine plants possess fascinating chemical properties with immense potential for various applications. However, my primary motivation was not merely to find the most practical uses for these chemicals but to craft a narrative that invites contemplation on the relationship between humans and nature.
My research delved into humanity's approach to nature's gifts, exploring what we can do to reciprocate when we harness these remarkable abilities. This journey led me to the work of wildlife filmmakers, whose efforts to aid nature's flourishing and their deep respect for the environment resonated deeply with the message I wanted to convey through this project.
I aimed to draw a parallel between the endurance of wildlife filmmakers in the harsh, snowy mountains and the survival strategies of alpine plants. By equipping filmmakers with meaningful, eco-friendly gear inspired by alpine plants, I wanted to underscore the synergy between human innovation and nature's resilience.
Can you elaborate on the research process behind identifying and utilising flavonoids and other organic compounds for UV protection and waterproofing in your gear?
The idea for using flavonoids and other organic compounds for UV protection and waterproofing in our gear started with a cool photo of the Himalayan snowball plant. This plant has these fur-like hairs in gorgeous green and purple shades, all curly like a trendy fur coat. It's not just beautiful; these hairs evolved to protect the plant in the tough alpine environment.
As a designer, I'm always looking to connect unique materials with interesting applications. I wondered if anyone had tried making wool fibres from the chemicals in these alpine plants for sustainable fashion. The only relevant research I found was a paper by Dr. Raymond Wightman, which just talked about discovering alpine plant wool. So, I contacted him, and that kicked off our project.
At the Sainsbury Lab at Cambridge University, Dr. Wightman and I tested the flavonoid chemicals. We saw their potential for waterproofing and I started developing a coating using flavonoids mixed with other biodegradable chemicals like sodium alginate. We're also working on self-assembled fibres made entirely of flavonoids, which is still in the R&D stage with Cambridge University.
How did the initial “Super Fake” project evolve into your current focus on plant-based materials for extreme environments?
My "Super Fake" project started with the idea of making waterproof coats from discarded fallen leaves in London. These leaves can't be recycled because they accumulate heavy metals and other pollutants from city traffic. The project was all about finding valuable uses for plants (like fallen leaves) and tackling environmental issues, such as the toxic chemicals typically used for waterproof coatings.
I realised that my design interests have always leaned towards sustainable functionality and the amazing abilities of plants. I focused on waterproofing because the most common waterproofing chemicals, like PFAS, are non-degradable and can accumulate in our bodies and the environment, causing long-term damage.
While working on the "Super Fake" project, I got really interested in the intersection of environmental problems caused by performance chemicals and the potential of nature to offer solutions. This led me to explore plant-based materials for extreme environments, where I continue to look for innovative and sustainable ways to harness the power of plants.
What long-term impact do you hope your project, Homage to Mountain, will have on the relationship between humans and nature?
In the broader scope, I hope "Homage to Mountain" inspires designers and scientists to focus on hidden plants for human and nature-centric development. There are countless fungi and plants with undiscovered survival strategies, as highlighted in Merlin Sheldrake's "Entangled Life." It says we need to explore the fascinating roles fungi play in the environment and their potential applications, emphasising the vast number of fungal species yet to be discovered and studied.
Plants have unique adaptations, such as specialised colours, textures, crystal structures on leaves, and efficient root systems in harsh environments. The goal is to recognise and learn from these hidden or forgotten plants to inspire better design, which is what biomimicry is all about. This approach can lead to innovative colours and textures for garments, new insulation systems for buildings, and more. By building a comprehensive archive of diverse plants and their hidden abilities, we can drive efforts to conserve these species and their unique traits.
Moreover, I hope this inspires the design industry to become more dynamic and diverse, drawing from the untapped potential of plants we've previously overlooked. I will continue to work as a material innovator across various industries, focusing on the sustainable and remarkable abilities of plants throughout my career.
What future applications do you envision for the plant-based materials and technologies you are developing?
I would like to actively collaborate with sportswear and gorp-core brands to explore practical applications for the "Homage to Mountain" concept. Although the material is still in development and not commercially available, I see great potential in using the "alpine plant-inspired" concept and its unique camouflage CMF for performance wear.
I aim to create larger prototypes beyond the balaclava model to inspire broader applications. By combining natural plant-based materials with high performance, I plan to apply the alpine-inspired coating to various materials like hemp, vegan leather, and lyocell, offering waterproof and UV protection with flavonoids.
What other industries do you see benefiting from the plant-based materials and techniques you are developing?
Apart from the film and outdoor apparel industries, in a more scientific approach, I see a lot of potential for plant-based materials and techniques in the healthcare sector. These materials could be used to create antibacterial and hypoallergenic fabrics.
Imagine using a fabric that protects against infections and skin issues caused by water exposure. Once you're healed, you can dissolve the fabric in an organic solvent and recreate it from the solution. This approach could establish a safe, cradle-to-cradle cycle for medical materials, which often generate a lot of waste and require high functionality.
This kind of innovation could make a big difference in reducing waste while still meeting the stringent demands of medical applications.
