How does the Hercosett treatment process enhance the wool tops for tumble dry and machine wash applications without compromising the fibre's natural qualities?
The Hercosett treatment process enhances wool tops for tumble dry and machine wash applications by addressing the natural properties of wool fibres.
Wool fibres have tiny scales on their surface, which can lead to felting and shrinkage after machine wash or tumble dry. The superwash process, also known as Hercosett, removes these scales and adds a very thin polymer layer (approximately 0.2 microns) to protect the fibres. As a result, treated wool fibres behave differently, significantly reducing or eliminating shrinkage during machine wash or tumble dry cycles without affecting wool’s other properties such as its breathability, softness, or biodegradability, for example.
A single sheep can produce over 30 litres of methane per day, of which 23.6% of emissions are assigned to wool. How is Engraw mitigating this environmental impact in its sustainability practices?
At Engraw, we acknowledge the environmental impact of methane emissions from ruminants, such as sheep, which can range between 20-25 litres per day. While methane contributes to greenhouse gas effects, it's crucial to consider the context. Unlike scenarios where deforestation occurs to support livestock farming, in Uruguay, our vast natural fields have been preserved for over 300 years without deforestation. Most of our country is composed of these natural fields. In the northern regions dedicated to livestock, where pink basalt soils predominate, farmers have focused on animal husbandry, not agriculture, for centuries.
Our wool originates from lands where extensive land management practices promote biodiversity and ecosystem health. Animals graze freely on natural grass, fostering a balanced ecosystem and preserving biodiversity. In 2021, emissions from one of our establishments were measured, resulting in a negative balance.
Nevertheless, we are committed to reducing our carbon footprint and implementing regenerative livestock practices alongside our wool growers. Through the Savory Institute, we conduct scientifically based soil CO2 measurements to ensure soil regeneration, leading to increased CO2 absorption. It’s important to note that sheep play a role in maintaining grass at an optimal length for CO2 absorption, highlighting the significance of our approach to sustainability.
In the context of global sustainability standards, how does Engraw's effluent treatment process set a benchmark for the wool industry?
Engraw's effluent treatment process sets a benchmark in the wool industry by utilising natural systems over chemical methods for wastewater purification. Instead of chemical additives, our process employs natural processes, contributing to water purification and sustainability.
The treatment involves three wastewater stabilisation ponds (WSP). The first pond operates anaerobically, the second is partially aerated, and the third is anaerobic-facultative. The treated wastewater is then transferred to a fourth pond used for water accumulation prior to irrigation. The sludge removed from the WSPs is placed in dehydration ponds. Once it reaches optimal humidity, it is disposed of on the ground.
Our innovative approach includes utilising proteins extracted from wool during treatment as nourishment and water filtration for nearby plantations. These proteins are disposed of in irrigation furrows covering a field with pastures and eucalyptus. The irrigation process is supervised by agronomic engineers who conduct periodic soil sampling.
Comprehensive monitoring is conducted, including:
- Raw wastewater,
- Treated wastewater,
- Surface water in the basin (Santa Lucía River),
- Groundwater (multiple monitoring wells),
- Irrigated soil.
The monitoring results consistently indicate good performance of the effluent treatment and disposal system. The treated wastewater complies with national standards, and there is no significant impact on the receiving environment. It is noteworthy that the entire wastewater treatment plant (WWTP) operates by gravity, eliminating the need for pumps and minimising risks associated with mechanical failures.
The studies of our treatment plant are conducted in collaboration with Estudio Pittamiglio, an organisation dedicated to technical consulting and the development of hydraulic, sanitary, and environmental engineering projects and studies.
Could you elaborate on the criteria and process used for the selection and customisation of wool tops for your clients, especially for the Blanco Real type?
The journey of creating our renowned Blanco Real (BR) wool tops began in 1992 when the Uruguayan Wool Secretariat initiated a campaign to encourage farmers to adopt Talli Hi shearing and farm skirting practices. These techniques were aimed at improving the overall quality of the wool harvested from Uruguayan sheep.
Building on this foundation, Engraw took a further step by persuading a dedicated group of farmers to engage in selective breeding and genetic separation of sheep. Our focus was on identifying and segregating sheep with genetic black spots. This meticulous selection process enabled us to produce wool tops with exceptionally low levels of dark and coloured fibres, a key quality attribute highly valued by our clients.
Through rigorous trials and continuous improvement, we developed the Blanco Real (BR) type wool tops, which guarantee specific Black and Colored Fiber (BCF) figures. This assurance of quality has been a cornerstone of our product offering, distinguishing BR wool tops in the global market.
Over the past three decades, Engraw has successfully delivered millions of kilograms of BR type wool to more than 30 countries around the world. This extensive reach is a testament to the consistent quality and reliability of our products.
Our criteria for selection and customization involve several key steps:
- Genetic Selection: We work closely with farmers to identify and segregate sheep with undesirable genetic traits, such as black spots, to ensure the wool produced is of the highest purity.
- Shearing Practices: We implement advanced shearing techniques, such as Talli Hi shearing, which helps maintain the integrity and length of the wool fibres.
- Farm Skirting: Post-shearing, we apply rigorous farm skirting practices to remove any coarse or contaminated wool, ensuring only the best quality fleece is processed.
- Quality Assurance: Throughout the production process, we conduct stringent quality checks to ensure the wool tops meet our high standards for purity, fibre length, and micron consistency.
- Client Collaboration: We customise our wool tops based on specific client requirements, ensuring that each batch meets their unique needs and expectations.
At Engraw, we are committed to sustainability and ethical practices. Our collaboration with local farmers not only enhances the quality of our wool but also supports the rural economy and promotes sustainable farming practices. We take pride in our heritage and the exceptional quality of our Blanco Real wool tops, which are a true reflection of our dedication to excellence.
How has Engraw adapted its production processes to cater to the growing market demand for environmentally friendly and ethically produced textiles?
At Engraw, our commitment to sustainability began in 2008, driven not only by industry trends but also by our unique circumstances and personal motivations within our leadership.
Our factory is strategically located in an area with optimal wind conditions, allowing us to install 2 wind turbines and generate our own renewable electricity. This initiative was motivated by the environmental benefits, significant cost savings, and the opportunity presented by Uruguay's favourable conditions for wind energy. Additionally, it was a personal goal of our leadership to embrace renewable energy, further aligning with our company’s values and vision for a sustainable future.
Furthermore, we continuously strive to meet and exceed the certification requirements set by our clients to remain competitive and aligned with our core values of environmental stewardship.
On the other hand, we actively pursue certifications that ensure our products meet high standards of sustainability and ethical production. These certifications are not just compliance measures but are integral to our philosophy of protecting our surroundings and maintaining the trust and satisfaction of our clients.
Can you discuss the impact of your long-term research into the genetic factors affecting wool colour on the development of products suitable for pastel shades?
Over the past decade, we have made substantial progress in reducing the Black and Colored Fiber (BCF) content in our wool, especially within our merino flocks. This advancement has been achieved through a committed collaboration with local growers and the Uruguayan Wool Secretariat (SUL). By working together, we have focused on selective breeding and genetic management to produce wool with fewer dark fibres and a brighter base colour, which is essential for pastel dyeing.
The commitment to enhancing the genetics and quality of our wool is a collective effort. The SUL has played a pivotal role in promoting and valuing Uruguayan wool. Through their support and resources, we have been able to implement effective breeding programs and improve the overall quality of our wool.
Despite these advancements, we acknowledge that some limitations in wool colour are influenced by Uruguay's climate conditions. However, our continuous efforts in genetic selection and collaboration with the SUL have mitigated these challenges, enabling us to produce high-quality wool suitable for light, delicate colours.
Our dedication to genetic research and quality control ensures that our wool retains its desirable traits, providing consistent and superior products for our clients. This commitment to innovation and collaboration with local growers and the SUL enables us to fulfil the increasing market demand for sustainable and visually appealing textiles.
Through these collective efforts, we have been able to offer wool that not only meets but exceeds industry standards for pastel shades, aligning with our values of sustainability and excellence in wool production.
