Key Points
- Made from a naturally occurring parasitic fungus; harvested and hand-processed locally with no added plastics or animal inputs.
- Soft, suede-like feel with inherent antibacterial properties; best for small goods unless reinforced.
- Performance can be improved via hot pressing, eco wax finishes, and fabric backings (e.g., hemp, linen).
- Each sheet is unique; pieces are graded, with ‘1st choice’ used where uniformity is required.
- Offcuts are re-used as MuSkin Powder for papers, foams, and other applications, reducing waste.
Full interview with MuSkin
How do your materials embody ethical responsibility and innovation?
Our materials come from responsible sources, which include environmentally friendly practices, fair working conditions, and reduced exploitation of resources. Materials are selected by strictly excluding any kind of plastic and any animal components. In some cases, like MuSkin or Banana Skin, for example, the raw material is waste, and using it means getting a beautiful, useful, and functional material from something that would otherwise be thrown away.
We also try not to produce waste: for example, by shredding pieces of MuSkin that are unusable because they are damaged or not good enough. This way, we obtain MuSkin Powder that can be used in many areas (to make paper, in dispersion in foams, etc.). Our denim paper is made from denim waste, and we can make beautiful papers from textile waste of all kinds. A textile company can thus use their textile waste and, instead of throwing it away, make beautiful papers that they can then use for their product packaging, labels, or shopping bags.
We try, if possible, to help local communities. MuSkin, in particular, is processed in the collection area by artisans from small rural communities whose economies are helped by purchasing a material that would otherwise have very limited use.
Your website mentioned padding made from flowers, paper, and leather from giant mushrooms. Could you shed light on the process behind developing these materials?
Let's start with flower padding. Grado Zero (of which Life Materials is a part) was founded over twenty years ago as an R&D company with the initial objective of transferring aerospace technologies into everyday life as part of a project carried out by the ESA (European Space Agency). In this process, Grado Zero was the first to use aerogel (an extremely insulating material used in space missions) inside a pad. Quota Zero is the first jacket with aerogel inside and was used for expeditions to Everest and the South Pole.
Subsequently, Grado Zero worked to make this padding more sustainable, replacing the silica-based aerogel with a cellulosic-based one and replacing the animal feathers with a particularly soft and fluffy flower. After more than ten years of development, we arrived at patenting a 100% vegan filling whose performance is similar to that of feather fillings. The material is now called FLWRDWN sold directly by Pangaia, which acquired the patent.
The materials on LifeMaterials.eu, on the other hand, are the result of continuous research. We study the characteristics of each material, the production process, and the story behind it. We select the most interesting ones and make them available via our website.
Could you delve deeper into the unique properties that make your flagship product, MuSkin, stand out?
MuSkin is a truly unique and extraordinary material. First of all, it is made from a parasitic fungus: this means that there is no industrial process behind it and no consumption of water, soil, or energy: The fungus grows on the bark of the trees, so removing it has no environmental impact; in fact, it is beneficial for the tree and the forest.
Moreover, it is processed in the same area where it is harvested, so logistics are limited to shipping without any intermediate steps or treatments. The process is completely manual and is carried out by woodcutters and craftsmen in small villages, whose economies are helped in this way. We are therefore talking about a material whose production has essentially zero impact. It is, of course, biodegradable and compostable, being made of 100% mushroom without any added substances.
As for the characteristics of MuSkin, it is a material similar to suede and very soft. It has naturally antibacterial properties (as certified by laboratory tests) and is therefore particularly suitable for contact with the skin. It is particularly suitable for accessories such as wallets, passport holders, inserts in clothing, bags, and watch straps. It has also been used in waistcoats, jackets, and shoes. But it must be kept in mind that it does not have the same resistance as animal leather, and if subjected to mechanical stress, it can deteriorate more easily. Pairing it with fabrics and protecting it with protective waxes improves its performance in these cases.
MuSkin is noted for its high breathability and the possibility of waterproofing through eco waxes. Could you elaborate on how these qualities are achieved?
This material offers good breathability, ensuring comfort for various applications. While it might not have the exact same durability as traditional leather, it still possesses decent strength and resilience, making it suitable for certain applications. Modifications, such as the application of waxes, are usually taken care of directly by our buyers.
Depending on the end use, different treatments are necessary. In any case, hot pressing at temperatures and pressures that may vary results in a thinner, more compact, and more uniform thickness. This treatment slightly improves the strength, and the MuSkin is easier to use. Subsequently, various types of ecological waxes can be deposited on the surface, usually by spraying.
The natural origin of MuSkin results in a material that may not have a uniform surface, making each piece unique. How does Life Materials ensure consistency in quality?
Each MuSkin is made from a single, hand-worked mushroom. It is a gift from Mother Nature and should be appreciated for its uniqueness. It would make no sense to choose an all-natural, sustainable, and unique material and at the same time expect the uniformity of appearance and quality that an industrial product would have. Life Materials is very sincere about this; each MuSkin is unique, which gives the material more value.
However, we make a selection by examining every MuSkin that arrives at us. Pieces with defects such as holes, scratches, or tears are classified as '2nd choice' and sold at a lower price. These MuSkins are absolutely usable, but in the case of applications in high-end products or in any case where the absence of defects is required, we recommend choosing '1st choice' pieces.
MuSkin is hypoallergenic and doesn't contain harmful chemicals or toxins commonly found in some types of leather, making it a safer option for individuals with sensitivities or allergies.
Recommending the lamination or coupling of MuSkin with backing materials for improved mechanical strength is an intriguing aspect. How does this backing process augment MuSkin's performance?
Coupling MuSkin with fabric is a great way to improve the mechanical strength of the material. It is a process we have used with excellent results to make trainers that would not have been strong enough if made with MuSkin alone. It is therefore advisable in all applications where the product must undergo mechanical stress or may be subjected to tension with the risk of tearing.
Indeed, we recommend using natural fabrics such as hemp and linen and avoiding the use of PU coatings, which, even if they would achieve the desired result, would distort an important characteristic of this material, which is its absolute sustainability.
These are some application examples, i.e., products actually made with the MuSkin:
- Kristel Peters shoes
- Drew Veloric ankle boots
- Giuditta Rossi bag
- Sasha Grafit book cover
- Life Materials wallet
- Paola Hinojos jacket
- Denisa Stelclova bodice
What are the next achievements that you would be very proud of achieving with Life Materials?
MuSkin is our flagship material, and we want to make it known as much as possible. We need designers, artists, and sustainability enthusiasts who want to fully understand its characteristics and explore its potential, which we believe is great and as yet unexpressed. MuSkin, as an innovative material, represents a sustainable solution in the quest for alternatives to traditional leather, contributing to a more environmentally conscious and ethically oriented approach in various industries.
We are also working on the possible uses of MuSkin Powder, which, as mentioned, has important natural antibacterial characteristics and could therefore be used in applications other than clothing, such as cosmetics.
LifeMaterials remains a unique portal, with principles that have remained solid for over ten years, to offer designers, craftsmen, and small companies plastic-free and cruelty-free materials. I would also like to remind you that Life Materials is part of the Grado Zero group, which was founded over twenty years ago as an R&D lab: In addition to offering existing materials, we are therefore able to offer a long and proven experience for designing, modifying, and fine-tuning very specific solutions at the request of our customers.
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A note on Pangaia Grado Zero:
A hallmark achievement of Grado Zero Espace was the creation of the world's first orthogonally weaved fabric, 'Oricalco', using 'NiTinol' shape memory alloy. This innovation led to the production of the first industrial-level shape memory and self-ironing shirt, a breakthrough recognized as 'Best Invention' by TIME in 2001. The versatility of the Oricalco fabric extended to applications in medical devices such as venous stents, showcasing the company's multifaceted expertise.
As Pangaia Grado Zero, the focus has shifted to developing advanced eco-sustainable materials, moving away from petroleum-based and animal-derived materials. The LifeMaterials project epitomizes this shift, offering a selection of raw materials completely detached from traditional sources. These plant-based and recycled components are not only environmentally friendly but also exhibit superior performance characteristics, redefining sustainability in various industries.
Pangaia Grado Zero's journey from Grado Zero Espace represents a significant transformation, driven by a commitment to innovation, sustainability, and the betterment of the planet. Their work in creating advanced, eco-friendly materials and their application in practical, everyday uses continue to set new standards in the industry. This evolution from innovative material technology in specialized sectors to leading the way in sustainable material science illustrates their ongoing dedication to a future where advanced materials and ecological balance coexist harmoniously.
